Before you go: context, documents, and expectations

Even before stepping inside, gather context. Ask the agent or owner for basics and set expectations about an as-is sale.

• Build year and code era: Homes built after 1981 (the shin-taishin standard) generally meet stricter seismic code. Pre-1981 (kyu-taishin) homes can be fantastic, but plan for structural checks or retrofits.
• Size and zoning: Confirm land and floor area in m² and tsubo (1 tsubo ≈ 3.3 m²). Check zoning and any required setback if the frontage road is under 4 m.
• Utilities status: If utilities are no longer connected, you might have to arrange temporary reactivation in order to properly inspect the installations. Otherwise you will only be able to perform visual checks.
• Wastewater: Is the property connected to public sewerage (gesuido)? Does it have a septic tank(jokaso/cesspit)? Septic upgrades can represent a significant renovation cost.
• Hazard maps: Review local flood and landslide (dosha) maps and historical snow/wind exposure.
• Ownership and encumbrances: Ask upfront if any of the property boundary are uncertain (kyokai). Are there any private road easements or unregistered extensions?
• Sale condition: Many akiya are sold “genkyo-wake” (as-is, current condition). Clarify whether remaining items will be removed and whether equipment is “unverified.”

What to bring to the viewing

• A flashlight and a headlamp for crawlspaces and attics.
• A moisture meter and a small awl/screwdriver to probe suspicious wood (with permission).
• A laser measure or tape to confirm room sizes.
• A marble or golf ball to detect sloping floors.
• A dust mask, gloves, and shoes that are easy to remove; bring indoor slippers.
• A phone camera and a spare battery, to photograph defects and labels on equipment.

Understand structure types at a glance

In Japan you’ll encounter three broad structural families. Each has its own inspection focus.

• Wooden frame (木造, Z-airspace walls): Common in akiya. These houses are warm, flexible and easily repairable. Watch for termite activity, sill rot (dodai), moisture in crawlspaces, inadequate bracing, and retrofits (hold-downs, metal connectors). A gentle bounce in floors hints at undersized joists or decay.
• Steel frame (鉄骨, light or heavy): These properties have slim columns and wider spans. Watch for corrosion at baseplates, balcony/weld points, and around penetrations. Watch for rust, especially In coastal areas, where salt air accelerates oxidation. Check fireproofing integrity and thermal bridges (condensation).
• Reinforced concrete (RC): These properties are solid and quiet when in good shape. In these cases, watch for map cracking, rebar exposure, spalling, and water ingress from flat roofs/balconies. Carbonation depth tests require professional help, but you can note rust staining and damp patches.

In addition, some homes can be composed of structures of different types, for example, wood on RC foundation walls, timber lofts on RC ground floors, etc. Pay particular attention to transitions between types, as they can be sources of leaks or instability.

Floor plans, tatami sizes, and LDK notation

Japanese listings use a compact shorthand. Understanding it helps you visualize layouts.

• LDK notation: For example, 2LDK means: two rooms plus Living/Dining/Kitchen. “DK” means dining/kitchen without a distinct living area. “S” means a small service/storage room.
• Tatami sizes vary by region: Kyoto (kyoma) ≈ 0.955 × 1.91 m; Nagoya (ainoma) ≈ 0.91 × 1.82 m; Tokyo (edoma) ≈ 0.88 × 1.76 m. A “6-jo” room feels different in Kyushu vs Kanto. Keep this in mind if a room size is measured in tatami.
• Traditional elements: Genkan (entry), engawa (veranda corridor), nando (closet), sliding shoji/fusuma partitions. These traditional elements can aid flexible layouts but may need insulation upgrades.
• Ceiling heights: Older homes can be low. Keep an eye on beam drops and the steepness of stairs. Consider that any changes needed for modern accessibility will add to your renovation costs.

Exterior walk-around: site, drainage, and envelope

Start outside with a focus on water control.

• Ground slope and drainage: Rain water should be driven away from the foundation. Look for soil erosion, moss lines, and damp foundation walls.
• Gutters and downspouts: Are they clear and connected to splash blocks or drains? Overflow staining indicates chronic issues.
• Roof type and condition: Clay tile (kawara) is very durable but heavy. Check for slipped tiles and ridge mortar failure. Metal roofs (galvalume) are lighter but you should check for rust and failed fasteners. Flat roofs need vigilant waterproofing.
• Exterior walls: Check for cracked stucco, delaminating siding, or soft wood cladding. These can signal moisture ingress. Examine the sealant at joints and penetrations.
• Foundation line: Step cracks and differential settlement around corners are red flags. Efflorescence (white salts) suggests chronic damp.
• Retaining walls: Check tilt, cracks, missing capstones, and weep holes. Repairing failing walls can outstrip the house price.
• Balconies and decks: Pay special attention to waterproofing, flashing, and rail attachments, as these are frequent leak sources.
• Neighborhood context: Consider the road width (Japanese law requires that the building site be adjacent to a road that is at least 4 meters wide, or 6 meters wide in snowy areas). Verify snow shedding from neighbors, and assess available parking. Also, keep in mind that some rural lanes can renovation deliveries difficult.

Foundation, structure, and crawlspace (床下)

If there is a crawlspace hatch, inspect it carefully. This is where many akiya tell their true story. Assess the moisture and ventilation, look in particular for water accumulation, mud, or moldy smells. Check the vents. Blocked vents trap moisture.

Probe the dodai (perimeter sill) and mid-span joists. Soft wood, dark staining, or wood that crumbles or looks rotten. Also look for termite evidence, such as mud tubes on piers, hollow-sounding timber or piles of shed wings in spring. Active termite colonies require prompt treatment.

Inspect bracing and connectors. Older homes may lack hold-downs and proper shear walls. A home without diagonal bracing and metal plates will have lower seismic performance.

Look for plumbing leaks. Inspect water supply lines and traps and make sure there is no corrosion or drips. Old steel pipes can constrict flow and result in leaks at the threads.

Roof, attic, and leaks

Water in the wrong place is the number-one contributor to renovation costs. W With a flashlight, look for water stains, black mold, and daylight at penetrations. Check also around chimneys and vent boots.

Check the insulation. For many akiya, insulation is thin or patched. Compressed, dirty, or damp batts perform poorly.

In terms of structure, check for sagging rafters or cracked purlins. They hint at snow overload or long-term leaks. If the roof uses heavy tiles (Kawara), be aware that, although durable, they require good bracing. Heavy tiles are often the primary focus of seismic retrofits.

Bathrooms, kitchens, and water systems

Prefabricated unit baths (known in Japanese as unitto basu) are usually watertight, while tiled, site-built, bathrooms can leak at the corners. Look for spongy floors and missing grout. The same advice applies to kitchens: check under the sink for water stains, swollen particleboard, or faulty traps.

When it comes to water heaters, they come in three types: on-demand gas, kerosene (灯油), or electric. Note the age and the venting. Old flues can backdraft. Exterior tankless units make any eventual replacements easier.

Is water supplied by the municipality or is it drawn from a well? If there is low pressure or the water looks rusty the house might have outdated galvanized pipes. In areas with harsh winters exposed pipes require freeze protection.

In the case of waste water, septic systems (jokaso) require maintenance. Cesspits often need upgrading if you renovate the kitchen or the bathroom.

Electricity and gas

Expect modest electrical capacity in older homes. Many akiya have 30A service with an earth leakage breaker. Modern living often benefits from 40–60A and additional circuits. You will likely find two-prong outlets, mixed grounding, and daisy-chained extensions. In that case, plan to add grounded outlets and dedicated circuits for induction cooktops, air conditioning and laundry.

Check if the property uses city gas or LP (propane). This is important because appliance jets differ. Confirm the type of gas installations before swapping ranges or heaters. LP tanks need clearances and periodic checks.

Many akiya have no smoke or CO detectors. Plan to install them, they are essential and inexpensive.

Insulation and windows

Pre-2000 homes often have minimal insulation and single-pane aluminum sashes. On windows, look for condensation streaks, warped frames, and loose amado (storm shutters). Interior secondary sashes (uchimado) dramatically improve comfort. As for walls, peek behind outlet plates or in closets for insulation clues. Drafts around baseboards and ceiling joints are common.

Interior finishes

Read the small signs! Surface clues often hint at deeper issues. For example: lift a corner of tatami (if permitted) and check for black spots (mold), frayed edges or bad smell. Re-covering a floor is simple, but structural rot beneath is not. Squeaks and dips near kitchens and baths suggest prior leaks. A rolling marble helps locate slopes from settlement.

Tea-colored stains on walls or ceilings indicate past leaks; straight-edged stains often come from failed flashing. Musty smell is normal in closed homes and often clears with proper ventilation. However, a sweetish rot, strong animal musk, or a persistent damp smell can be indicative of serious problems.

Termites, insects, and wildlife

In Japan there are both subterranean and wood-boring pests. Termites are wood-boring. To detect termites, look for signs such as hollow-sounding timber and discarded wings. Termites are highly active in warmer regions and near damp crawlspaces.

Another common problem are Powderpost beetles. Infestation in hardwoods can be identified by pinholes with fine talc-like powder. In such cases wood treatment and/or replacement may be needed.

Rodents and other small animals are common in attics. Look for droppings, chewed wires, and nests under the eaves. To avoid this type of intrusion. seal all entry points and replace any damaged or missing insulation.

Paper nests under the eaves indicate bees or wasps. Move cautiously around them and reserve a budget for their removal.

Understand listings and equipment notes

Listings often hide key condition details in short phrases. Here are a few examples of conditions you should be aware of:

• “現況有姿” (genkyo-yushi/genkyo-wake): Sold strictly as-is. Don’t assume repairs, cleaning, or junk removal unless expressly included.
• “設備動作未確認”: Equipment not verified. Budget for replacement of heaters, pumps, and appliances.
• “告知事項あり”: There is something to disclose. It could be past leaks, neighbor issues, or a stigmatized event (jiko bukken). Ask for specifics in writing.
• “セットバック要”: The road is too narrow; some land may need to be given up on rebuild.
• “下水無し／浄化槽”: There is no public sewer; septic present or needed. Confirm compliance and capacity.
• “再建築不可”: No right to rebuild under current code (fine for simple use but risky for major redevelopment).
• “システムキッチン / IH / ガス”: System kitchen modules. Cooking is induction or gas. Converting between gas and induction may require electrical upgrades or gas line work.
• “残置物あり”: Belongings remain. Clarify who pays for removal of the previous occupant's belongings and by when.

Regional considerations

Consider the location of the property when budgeting your renovation project. For example, in snowy regions (雪国), inspect snow guards and look for steeper roof pitches and reinforced eaves. Attic ventilation is vital to avoid ice dams. In coastal areas, salt air corrodes metal roofing, fasteners, and steel frames faster than usual.

In warm, humid regions there is higher termite activity and mold growth. In these zones prioritize ventilation, dehumidification, and treated lumber in repairs. Finally, if the property is located on a seismic belt, factor in bracing, hold-downs, and lightweight roof options.

Very rough cost estimations

Every project is unique, but these ballpark figures can help you get a general idea of the scope of your project:

Termite treatment	¥150,000 - ¥400,000 for typical detached homes.
Partial floor repairs:	¥300,000 - ¥1,000,000 depending on joist/sill work.
Seismic retrofit	¥800,000 - ¥3,000,000+ based on scope.
Roofing	Re-sheet metal ¥8,000 - ¥18,000/m²
Full roofing	Often ¥800,000 - ¥2,500,000 for a small house.
Rewiring and new panel	¥400,000 - ¥1,200,000 for small to mid-size homes.
Plumbing refresh	¥300,000 - ¥1,000,000 for key runs; whole-house repipe higher.
Unit bath replacement	¥700,000 - ¥1,300,000 installed; site-built repair can exceed this.
System kitchen	¥400,000 - ¥1,200,000 depending on size and appliances.
Window upgrades	¥50,000 - ¥120,000 per opening. Full replacement higher.
Insulation/top-up	¥6,000 - ¥12,000/m² for common approaches.
Tatami re-cover	≈¥6,000 - ¥12,000 per mat.
Tatami core replacement	≈¥15,000 - ¥25,000 per mat.
Junk removal (残置物撤去)	¥100,000 - ¥600,000+ depending on volume and access.

Etiquette and safety during the visit

Etiquette is very important in Japan. Never show up unannounced to perform a property inspection. Always arrange a formal visit in advance. The day of the appointment, arrive on time, greet neighbors, and remove your shoes at the genkan (bring slippers). Ask for permission before opening any panels, moving tatami, or entering attics and crawlspaces. Don’t turn on appliances or heaters without permission and ventilation. For your safety, it is recommended to wear a mask in dusty spaces and to watch for weak floors.

When to call a professional inspector

Even seasoned buyers benefit from professional eyes. Architects or inspectors can perform a visual survey and moisture scan, typically within a few hours. Free or low-cost termite inspections are common and treatment quotes are quick. For pre-1981 homes, consider hiring a structural engineer for recommendations. If the house is not connected to sewerage, a septic contractor can provide an assessment of compliance and help you plan for upgrades. Likewise, depending on the state of the property, you may need to request the services of other trades such as roofing specialists, plumbers and electricians.

Making the go/no-go decision

To avoid feeling overwhelmed, group your findings into these three buckets:

1. Life/safety/structure: Foundation movement, active leaks, electrical hazards. These must be addressed first.
2. Weather-tight and healthy: Roofing, flashing, gutters, ventilation, and moisture management.
3. Comfort and lifestyle: Kitchen/bath upgrades, insulation, window improvements, finishes.

If the first two buckets fit within your budget and timeline, you likely have a viable project (the rest can follow as you live in and learn the home.)

Conclusions

Every akiya has its quirks, and that’s part of their charm! Armed with a flashlight, a curious mind, and this checklist, you’ll move beyond guesswork to informed decisions. And when in doubt, lean on local pros and patient neighbors. They are often the secret ingredient to a happy, well-loved home in Japan.

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